I've got everything disconnected. The motor is ready to be pulled from the truck. Problem is the engine sits somewhat behind the cowl, so you cannot lift the engine straight up without hitting the cowl with the engine hoist chain. Do I need to use an engine leveler in concert with the hoist or can I just do it with a chain diagionally across the heads? The intake has already been removed. Anyody done this?

 

An engine leveler is a life saver in situations like this. Something else to think about. When I did this on a 2WD V-6, we let the air out of the tires and barely had room to clear the front end. If it's a 4WD, take the wheels off and loer the truck on a jack until you have the desired clearance.

 

1st off even if it is a 4wd you don't have to do anything but let the air out of the tires. 2nd, the leveler could be a life saver or you could do a diagnol chain from the back side of one head to the front side of the other. The issue that you are going to run into is as you raise the engine you are going to find that unless you unbolt the engine mounts from the side of the block you are not going to have enough clearance or at the very least you will cause yourself some extra heart ache. (Been there done that) The next thing to worry about if you use a chain is the valve covers. They will break if you allow the chain to lay across them as you pull the motor. You can buy the pulling brakets at any local parts store and I would highly suggest them. You could also fab your own as I did just make sure you use 1/4 in thick steel and fab it so that you could use your exhuast manifold bolts. Other than that you should be good to go. If you still have trouble with clearance it may be a good idea to get a buddy to underneath the truck as you pull it up so he can tell you how it looks from there. Just make sure he keeps all his little fingers and other appendages back away from any area that could cause him harm.

 

Good information Guys. Thanks.
About removing the motor mounts. Sounds like rather than removing the long bolt and separating the two mounts (one from the frame and the other on the engine) is to unbolt it entirely from the engine for added clearance. I can do that. Also, I ran a chain to where the intake manifold was bolted to the cylinder head, and not across the valve covers for the exact reason you stated. Is it not advisable to pull from where the manifold was attached? I understand these are aluminum heads, so I wasn't entirely sure I could effect an engine pull from here. Doing it this way would not interfere with the valve covers.

I have had to let the air out of the tires before when I rebuilt my GMC truck 2 years ago. But, I gotta tell you, it was a breeze pulling that 350 in relation to pulling this 4.6 sucker. This is a pain. I should have had this thing out of the truck by now.

 

When I pulled my 5.4, I used one of the alternator holes, and one of the holes in the back on the opposite side for the intake manifold I think. I used a chain and ran bolts through the links. There was no load leveler involved because I couldn't find it. The motor had to come up just a tad, then I pulled the picker w/ motor out from under the firewall and lifted it up. I didn't need to let any air out of my tires or anything, and I have a 4x4. Also, I used an intake manifold bolt for the chain when pulling the motor. It bent, so I wouldn't recommend using one of them. There was also a stud on the drivers side firewall sticking out that gouged the crap out of my valve cover. I'm also assuming here that you removed everything else you need to, like your radiator and such.

 

When I removed my 5.4 I had to let the air out of my 4x4 but I have the torsion bars cranked with 305's, so, I had no choice. If you can do it without letting the air out then go for it. As far as the exhuast manifold bolts bending I do agree with the above post in that if they are not flush to metal they will bend, hence why I fabbed the brakets that I did. I could crank my header bolts all the way down to the 1/4 in. metal brackets and then I just hooked the chain to my brackets. Once there, I unbolted the mounts from the block and raised the engine about 1 inch, slid the cherry picker back just a fuzz, and raised that monster out of there. The next thing to remember is to have an adequate engine stand because unless the one you used on your old GM motor is rated for more weight it may not work. I believe that these motors weigh in around the 500 lb range, maybe more, but the stand I had was rated for 700 lbs. and it was bowed over pretty good. Best of luck.

 

Mine was rated at 750lbs and it may not have bowed over, but it sure did make my feet nervous when torqueing bolts down.

If your worried about it, my old man suggested to me that I place some blocks and a jack under it to help take some of the load off the stand. I didn't bother though.

 

Pull the intake manifold. Use the bolt holes from the intake manifold on the passenger side and a front cover bolt on the driver side. Here are pics from when we installed neal's engine;





JMC

 

Great pictures. Much help. Can't tell whether you had the motor mounts on the engine though. It's ready to pull except deciding whether to disconnect the mount from the engine. I already have the bolt removed that separated the engine mount from the frame mount. Opinions??

 

Take the tires off for a 4x4. Unbolt at least motor mount so you don't have to clear them to move engine forword. Makes everthing easier. I didn't even pull my intake...but then again I wasn't worried about my 4.6.

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At first I didn't see what was holding that thing up.

How did you handle that a/c line? I just unbolted the pump.

 

Only the through bolts to the motor mounts are removed. There is enough room to lift it over the frame section of the motor mount and then to drop it down into it.

JMC

 

I drained the AC system and diconnected the lines. My new engine has the compressor with it and about 120000 less miles on it. Compressor could be removed from the engine leaving hoses attached in order to avoid draining system. I also was then able to remove the condenser.From past experiance (my bad luck) if it could get hit, I will hit it.

It is nylon lifting strap wrapped around the intake runners which is attached to my cherry picker.

 

I did mine very similar to GMC but used leveler connected to a front bolt hole and the grounding hole in the back, both on the iron block. You can see the leveler in these pictures.

 

BTW, the motor mounts were still on the engine. I rotated the front of the engine up until I got it away from the transmission then I leveled it out and pulled it strait up. It fit without removing the front sheet metal or the air conditioner condenser. I did have to remove the radiator of course.