Changing spark plug on 1998 4.6l
#1
Changing spark plug on 1998 4.6l
Hello,
Today my truck popped out the #8(I think)spark plug(The one closest to the firewall on the passenger side?). After examining the spark plug it doesnt appear the threads are damaged... maybe just one small nick on one of the threads but that's it.
Considering I just spent 400 to get them replaced about 10 months ago.. I'd like to try and screw in another one myself.
Does anyone know if I'll need a special socket to do this? I would appreciate any info you have on the tools I'd need to try and screw in a new spark plug.
Thank you!
Today my truck popped out the #8(I think)spark plug(The one closest to the firewall on the passenger side?). After examining the spark plug it doesnt appear the threads are damaged... maybe just one small nick on one of the threads but that's it.
Considering I just spent 400 to get them replaced about 10 months ago.. I'd like to try and screw in another one myself.
Does anyone know if I'll need a special socket to do this? I would appreciate any info you have on the tools I'd need to try and screw in a new spark plug.
Thank you!
Last edited by anxvariety; 12-22-2003 at 02:44 AM.
#2
no check engine light after plug pops out?
One other thing..
I paid for this maintenance - replacing the plugs at 95,000 miles and I know have 113k.
The reason I got this stuff done is because they reccomended it as the solution to the constant CHECK ENGINE light that was stuck on... When I got the plugs repaired they said "We can't get out the #8 plug".. Then I said, "You can't get out the #8 plug, but the whole reason I got the plugs replaced was to get rid of the CHECK ENGINE light".
So they got the check engine light off.. and said they replaced the plug- but:
1. This plug looks super, duper old like the ones they first replaced.
2. Now that my plug is out the CHECK ENGINE light did NOT come on.. Is it supposed to if a plug pops out?
THANKS MUCH!
I paid for this maintenance - replacing the plugs at 95,000 miles and I know have 113k.
The reason I got this stuff done is because they reccomended it as the solution to the constant CHECK ENGINE light that was stuck on... When I got the plugs repaired they said "We can't get out the #8 plug".. Then I said, "You can't get out the #8 plug, but the whole reason I got the plugs replaced was to get rid of the CHECK ENGINE light".
So they got the check engine light off.. and said they replaced the plug- but:
1. This plug looks super, duper old like the ones they first replaced.
2. Now that my plug is out the CHECK ENGINE light did NOT come on.. Is it supposed to if a plug pops out?
THANKS MUCH!
#3
Sounds like something is a "foul" here and I don't mean the plugs!
Plugs don't normally just pop out if installed correct! And not without damaging the threads! Someone is attempting to sell you a story, "couldn't get it out, then did change it? I don't understand?
They did change it then?
Get a little mirror on a stick and flash light and check that plug hole for good threads.
It could have happen like this! I'm changing the plugs and I screw up and cross thread number 8 and damage the hole and plug, so I grab an old plug off the bench and start it (just a thread or two) and send it out. Now the customer will never know and if something happens (it was fine when it left the shop) will be a good reply.
Changing the plugs requires standard plug socket and ext and maybe a flex joint on an ext.
Lets just hope the plug was never tighten and just screwed it self out.
Good luck my friend.
Plugs don't normally just pop out if installed correct! And not without damaging the threads! Someone is attempting to sell you a story, "couldn't get it out, then did change it? I don't understand?
They did change it then?
Get a little mirror on a stick and flash light and check that plug hole for good threads.
It could have happen like this! I'm changing the plugs and I screw up and cross thread number 8 and damage the hole and plug, so I grab an old plug off the bench and start it (just a thread or two) and send it out. Now the customer will never know and if something happens (it was fine when it left the shop) will be a good reply.
Changing the plugs requires standard plug socket and ext and maybe a flex joint on an ext.
Lets just hope the plug was never tighten and just screwed it self out.
Good luck my friend.
#5
You can buy a plug socket at Autozone or any other autopart store, that along with a 3 and 6" extenstion will do just fine to get ALL plugs out.
They couldn't get the plug out? They didn't try very hard.
As for the plug coming out.....there are posts where others have had the same problem. Might want to check that out.
PS......You said the #8 plug, next to the firewall on the passenger's side.....I believe that is #4 plug.
They couldn't get the plug out? They didn't try very hard.
As for the plug coming out.....there are posts where others have had the same problem. Might want to check that out.
PS......You said the #8 plug, next to the firewall on the passenger's side.....I believe that is #4 plug.
Last edited by tj4ndirish; 12-22-2003 at 01:48 PM.
#6
Spark plugs start #1 on pass side, front of the truck. So it sounds like you are looking at #4 plug (#8 would be drivers side).
Also, I would make sure you get a socket that is made for pulling plugs They have a rubber gasket inside so the plug will actually come out with the socket)
Make sure when you are putting the new one in that you
a) dont put it into the socket too (just enough so that it stays in the socket) or else it will be impossible to get the socket out (the socket will stay with the plug).
B) put some duct tape around the socket and extension to help this.
Also, get short and long extensions, and a wobble joint would not be a bad idea as well.
As for your experience at the store, I think this is why most people try to change their own plugs...these things are a PITA to get out and it's hard to tell if they changed them all. If someone is going to check after getting it done they might as well have done it themself and saved a few hundred bucks.
Also, if your plug "pops out", you should definitely be getting a code of some sort. Like someone elese said they may have pulled your CEL so you wont ever see it. Go to autozone and see if any codes come up.
Also, I would make sure you get a socket that is made for pulling plugs They have a rubber gasket inside so the plug will actually come out with the socket)
Make sure when you are putting the new one in that you
a) dont put it into the socket too (just enough so that it stays in the socket) or else it will be impossible to get the socket out (the socket will stay with the plug).
B) put some duct tape around the socket and extension to help this.
Also, get short and long extensions, and a wobble joint would not be a bad idea as well.
As for your experience at the store, I think this is why most people try to change their own plugs...these things are a PITA to get out and it's hard to tell if they changed them all. If someone is going to check after getting it done they might as well have done it themself and saved a few hundred bucks.
Also, if your plug "pops out", you should definitely be getting a code of some sort. Like someone elese said they may have pulled your CEL so you wont ever see it. Go to autozone and see if any codes come up.
#7
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#8
#9
As D-Rig pointed out, does the Check Engine light come on when turning your ignition to 'on' before cranking the motor? If it doesn't, they strictly disabled the light, and more than likely never touched your #4 plug. (which is why it is now blowing out a year later and not showing a check engine light.) If a blown plug does not give you a check engine light I'm not sure what would! (At that point you would have a 'miss' to say the least.) As you've probably found out by now, this is not a cheap repair, so I'd definately see if you can determine if whoever swapped your plugs is responsible.
Last edited by STX/98; 12-22-2003 at 04:44 PM.
#10
#11
anxvariety, the hey questions asked need to be answered.
For the plug problem you need to look at the HOLE not the PLUG. Look at the threads in the head for good threads.
For the Check Engine light, does it come on when you turn the key to on without the motor running?
It will be tough to answer any of your questions untill you answer these.
For the plug problem you need to look at the HOLE not the PLUG. Look at the threads in the head for good threads.
For the Check Engine light, does it come on when you turn the key to on without the motor running?
It will be tough to answer any of your questions untill you answer these.
#12
It's gonna be hard to get a look in the #4 hole, since it's under the firewall (and impossible to get your head in there to see).
If you have a camera (preferably digital) you could try to squeeze that in there though.
PS I do agree with Charlie that you need to make sure the threads on the block are not stripped.
If you have a camera (preferably digital) you could try to squeeze that in there though.
PS I do agree with Charlie that you need to make sure the threads on the block are not stripped.
#13
Originally posted by STX/98
If a blown plug does not give you a check engine light I'm not sure what would!
If a blown plug does not give you a check engine light I'm not sure what would!
#14